déterrage de post
j'ai trouvé quelqu'un qui apparemment a trouvé la cause et la résolu, c'est en anglais mais explicite avec les photos.
en cause une pièce en forme de disque (washer en anglais) qui aurait un diamètre trop élevé de 2-3 mm et qui forcément frotterai... et peut être à force de frotter le surplus suserait et chez certain disparaîtrait avec les km.
I bought my ’10 K1300S in May of this year. This is actually my second K13S. I had another ‘10 tri-color K13S which I regrettably sold last year. I really missed that bike so I bought another one just like it. I noticed the loud rattling noise/vibration in the 3.5K – 4.5K rpm right away. Though it had been awhile since I had last driven my previous K13S, I did not remember it making this noise. In fact I spoke to the new owner about it and he hadn’t noticed these rattling noises either.
The symptoms were a loud rattling noise and some abnormal vibration in the 3.5k – 4.5K rpm range, especially while decelerating in this range. It was always present regardless of engine temperature but it was a little less noisy when the engine was cold. It’s difficult to discern exactly where the noise is coming from but it sounds like it’s just underneath the air box around the alternator or starter. I also had random issues starting the bike when it was hot. The bike would start just fine cold and after a 30-minute ride and a brief stop it would barely turn over as if the battery was weak. I replaced the battery and this would still occasionally happen even with a full charge.
I took my bike in for service and discussed these issues with the technician. After a few days they called and said they couldn’t find anything wrong with it. They said the battery charge was a little low so they charged it. When I asked about the rattling sound they said they didn’t hear any abnormal noises. When I picked it up, I had them listen to the rattling noise and they were not impressed and said it was normal.
I usually always ride with earplugs and the noise is barely audible with ear plugs and a helmet. But I’m an engineer and just knowing the rattle was present really annoyed me. I knew the noise is not normal and that not all K13S have this rattling sound so I decided I would try to fix it myself.
Based on some of the previous information posted here and the symptoms my bike had I thought I would start with looking at the starter idler gear and alternator free wheel gear. So I ordered some parts and a few special tools and dove in.
I highly recommend getting the service manual DVD for reference and more detail on the following procedure.
1. Remove the left/right fairing panels.
2. Remove the lower engine spoiler.
3. Remove the left/right fuel tank trim panels.
4. Remove the fuel tank.
5. Remove the starter.
6. Remove the clutch slave cylinder.
7. Remove the right engine housing cover.
8. Remove the crankshaft position sensor and install the crankshaft lock pin (BMW tool).
9. Remove the clutch plate cluster using the clutch cage driver lock (BMW tool).
10. To remove the clutch basket you need to unload the tensioning gear of the alternator free wheel. Turn the crank until you see a small hole in the alternator free wheel gear. Insert the locating pin (BMW tool) and turn it 90 degrees clockwise to unload the tensioning gear. The clutch basket can now be removed.
Now with the clutch basket out we can access the starter idler gear and the alternator free wheel mechanism. I rotated the alternator free wheel mechanism by hand and heard something rattle. The rattle was coming from a washer (spacer) that was next to the starter idler gear. The washer fit loosely on the shaft and had quite a bit of play. It also appeared to be somewhat oversized (outer diameter) because it overlaps the alternator free wheel gear teeth as well. Obviously the washer is there to keep the correct offset for the starter idler gear so it meshes with the alternator free wheel gear properly but I can't understand why they used a washer with such a large outer diameter. I was pretty sure this was the source of the rattle. So the next step was to replace this washer with a properly sized washer (spacer), one that fit the shaft without any play and the correct thickness to provide the correct offset for the idler gear.
Here is the challenging part. How to remove the shaft for the started idler gear? The only access to it is via a small port after you remove a plug. The shaft itself does not have threads and is pressed in... so it’s a tight fit. The service manual just says ‘use a suitable tool’. I struggled with this for a while and couldn’t get it out. I tried tapping the shaft so I could thread a bolt into it and use that to pull it out but the steel of the shaft was much harder than any of the taps I could find and I couldn’t cut a single thread into it. Very frustrating. After searching, I eventually had to order a special 'Snap On' internal shaft/bearing puller. It took 10 days to arrive. Once I had the puller I had the shaft out in 10 minutes. Having the correct tool for the job at hand always makes things easier. With the shaft out I could see just how poorly the washer fit on the shaft. It wobbled quite a bit and had lots of play. The idler gear itself fit perfectly on the shaft with no play whatsoever. I then found a replacement washer that fit perfectly on the shaft and was the correct thickness and had a smaller outer diameter so it would not rub against the alternator free wheel gear.
Before putting everything back together I installed the timing chain jump guard and adjusted the oil pump chain. Assembly is basically the reverse of the steps above. You need to unload the alternator free wheel gear again before installing the clutch basket.
Finally, no more rattling! Replacing the washer (spacer) definitely eliminated the 3.5K – 4.5K rattling noise on my K13S. Also, it seems to have solved my random ‘difficult to start/turn over when hot’ issue as well. The K13S engine is definitely not the smoothest engine out there, but at least it sounds normal now and it runs just like I remember my previous K13S did.
Hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
pour les photos et le tutoriel c'est sur ce forum. Scroller jusqu'en peu plus bas que la moitié de la page (la ou il y'a toutes photos de l'embrayage démontée. [Vous devez être inscrit et connecté pour voir ce lien]